Aussie Rules! (Austria, that is…)
by Mike Stolese
One of the biggest surprises in my long tenure in the wine business was the discovery of Austrian wines, particularly my favorite white wine grape, Grüner Veltliner. There are many incredible wines coming out of Austria, but it is Grüner Veltliner that really captured the attention of the wine world.
In my humble opinion, it would be tough to find a more versatile white wine than the “Groovy V.”
GV did not really find its way into the mainstream until the early 2000s, and it remains a go-to on wine lists and by-the-glass programs around the world. The beauty of GV is its crisp acidity, citrus flavors, and very cool white pepper finish.
GV is extremely refreshing on its own. Sitting on the porch or boat with a glass of GV is one of my favorite pastimes on a hot summer day. But that is just the beginning…as a food pairing wine, not many wines can compete.
Any Asian or Indian restaurant that does not carry a GV is really missing a perfect pairing for so many dishes that bring a bit of heat. Seafood restaurants and raw bars should also make sure they have a Grüner or two.
Now, Austria is not a one-trick pony. GV leads the charge in whites, but they also offer excellent Rieslings, many in a drier style, along with Pinot Blanc and a bit of Chardonnay.
Along with the changing seasons comes Rosé, and one of my favorites is from Schloss Gobelsberg: Cistercian Rosé. It is a blend of St. Laurent, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir, and does it deliver. This Rosé comes out of the glass swinging…zesty lemon, blood orange, and fresh pomegranate, with a stony minerality and refreshing acidity, ending in a long, clean finish. There’s a reason it’s my go-to summer Rosé.
The reds in Austria are also very unique, and what you won’t find are overblown or overly oaky wines. Grapes like Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and St. Laurent are the dominant players. Blaufränkisch is my personal favorite, as it offers beautiful dark berry fruit, along with a bit of spice and a nice core of acidity. When it comes to food pairings, I’d head straight toward barbecue, sausage, and burgers.
Zweigelt and St. Laurent are both easy-drinking, lighter-bodied reds…I look at these as great summer reds that can even take a slight chill.
Now that we are summer-bound, search out a Grüner or any of the other Austrian wines. You may not be able to pronounce a few of them, but they are worth the effort.
Click the button below for some favorite Austrian selections…!
Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
