
CHEESE AND WINE? LET’S DINE!
by Mike Stolese
As with all food and wine pairings, cheese and wine pairings can have their issues.
Last week, Tracy planted the seed for this column with her article on raclette. With so many styles of cheese, from the soft and pungent cheeses out of France, to the hard cheeses of Italy, to all the incredible cheeses from Vermont, and everything in between, selecting the right wines to pair with cheese can be tough.
As I started this column mentioning raclette, let’s start there.

Raclette is a semi-hard cheese from Switzerland with strong aromatics and a low melting temp, making it perfect to heat and drizzle over bread, potatoes, even steak. Usually crisp, acidic, whites make the right partner. Albariño, dry Riesling, Vermentino and my go-to acidic white, Grüner Veltliner, normally do the trick.
Next scenario: you’re throwing a party with a large charcuterie platter as a centerpiece, and a number of different styles of cheese. This is where the challenge begins…what wines will cover all the bases, enhance the experience of some cheeses and not bring out the worst in others?
An easy choice is bubbles, whether it be Champagne, Crémant, Prosecco, or one of my favorites, dry Lambrusco. Again, acidity and the addition of carbonation work with almost all cheeses. Certainly, the raclette selections mentioned above would also work here, along with light-bodied reds with low tannins. Examples would be Gamay, Grenache and Malbec. A Dolcetto from Italy is one of my personal favorites.
So, we’ll finish off by discussing some pairings that can go wrong. Let’s use oaked Chardonnay as the wine. First off, strong, bold, cheeses like blue or Gorgonzola will overpower the wine. Sharp cheeses with high acid can cut into creamy texture of the wine, again leading to imbalance where both the cheese and the wine taste “off.”
Another tough one to pair with cheese is a big Cabernet Sauvignon with high tannins. This will have trouble with soft cheeses, often leaving a metallic taste on the palate. So, save the Chardonnay for the lobster and the Cab Sauv for the steak.
A basic rule of thumb: look for high acid whites, sparkling wines and low tannin reds. Everybody will thank you.
Click below for our guide to the pours that will make your next cheese night legendary…!
Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
