I Left My Heart in Piemonte…

by Mike Stolese

As anyone that knows me knows, I am all about all things Italian.

I grew up in a house where my Italian grandmother, who came through Ellis Island in the 1920s, was always showing my German/Irish mom how to cook. Whether it was stuffed shells, traditional tomato sauces (either a pomodoro or meat sauce), where to buy the best sweet and hot Italian sausage, or the best garlic bread I’ve had to this day, I was immersed in Italian culture at a young age.

In our house, if you were having a bad day, my father’s favorite comment was, “Have some spaghetti…you will feel better.” And of course, even at age 10, the kids had a couple of ounces of the “basket Chianti” with their meal.

So, my love of Italian wine goes back a long way.

When I got in to the wine business, I knew that my focus would be on Italian wines. But I had no idea about the number of regions and the almost unlimited types of grapes. So, my journey began.

I explored from the Germanic influences in the north, where I learned about grapes such as Pinot Nero, Schiava, Pinot Bianco, Kerner and, in my humble opinion, the best Pinot Grigio you’ll find in Italy…to the south and grapes such as Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero d’Avola, Fiano and Falanghina…then back to central Italy and regions such as Tuscany, with its world famous Sangiovese (best known as the lead grape in Chianti).

That is a very short list of grapes and a very short list of regions. But for me, when I visited Piemonte, I was done. It was over…I was hooked.

Like Tuscany with its Sangiovese, Piemonte is legendary for the grape Nebbiolo, which is the grape in the famous Barbaresco and Barolo…my personal favorites. These wines have to be 100% Nebbiolo, and man, are they special wines. Though lighter in color and more Pinot-like, these are powerful wines without the weight of a Bordeaux or a big California Cab.

The aromatics are what first grab you…dried roses, wild herbs, tar and licorice.  Then on the palate, the real fun begins…flavors of red cherries and raspberry, with hints of clove, truffles and dark chocolate. These wines are not inexpensive, and maybe are more for a special occasion…but at some point, this is a road you must go down.

Food pairing is another great way to enjoy these wines. Whether it be with a nice steak, Osso Buco, or any number of tomato-based pasta dishes, bring on one of “The Big B’s.”

A great introduction to Nebbiolo can be found by searching out Langhe Nebbiolo. Langhe Nebbiolo is often made from younger vines or grapes grown just outside the boundaries of the famous Barolo and Barbaresco zones. Many of the rules regarding aging for Barolo and Barbaresco don’t apply here…it skips the mandatory long-term oak aging, allowing for a fresher, fruit-forward, and less expensive wine. This is a great way to start learning about this incredible grape.

Another reason I have always been fascinated by Nebbiolo is its inability to grow and deliver the same level of quality in any region of the world other than what’s found in Piemonte. Its very special soil and terroir brings out the best in the grape.

Now that I’ve given you the full-court press on Nebbiolo, let’s turn to a number of the other Piemonte grapes that I am a big fan of.

In the reds, Barbera would be my everyday drinking wine. It can shine with or without oak aging…steel fermented or cement aging delivers a light, fruity, acid-driven red that’s perfect anytime. With oak, you get a richer, more powerful wine with aging potential.

Another red from Piemonte that the locals drink regularly is Dolcetto, a wine that is meant to be drunk young. Again, lots of cherry/berry fruit with hints of herbs…a fun, vibrant wine.

Let us not forget about the incredible white wines of Piemonte…Arneis, Favorita, Gavi, and Erbaluce all give a great start. And actually, some of the better Italian Chardonnays that I have had have been from Piemonte. The whites all show a nice level of refreshing acidity with layers of citrus fruit, while the Gavi can have a hint of salinity.

So, on your next trip to Italy, I hope you can find your way to Piemonte. If the wine doesn’t get you, the food will. One of my favorites is Vitello Tonnato, an appetizer of thinly sliced, cold-cooked veal blanketed in a savory, creamy sauce made from tuna, capers, anchovies, and olive oil…it’s killer! Then it’s off to wild boar, many unique pastas…and if you’re a fan of truffles, this is heaven.

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Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.

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