Believe it or not, your wine choices should change with the preparation.

My guess is that most folks go with the traditional boiled lobster, and you really can’t go wrong here…a little butter and it’s game on! It’s the same with lobster that’s grilled or broiled. Wine-wise, we can go in a few different directions…the first being a nice, lightly-oaked Chardonnay to pair up with the rich texture of the lobster and all that lovely butter.

The alternative would be bubbles, such as Champagne, Prosecco, Cava, and so forth…with all the bubbles and acidity, these make every new bite a new experience as they cleanse the palate.

Lastly, and for some of the same reasons as bubbles, acidic whites such as Pinot Grigio, Dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc also offer acidity and fruit flavors that bring something new to each bite.

Off to baked stuffed lobster, and here, you can stay in the same vein as above…but, you can also branch out a bit. I like unoaked white Burgundies, both Chardonnay and Aligoté. The minerality that they offer, along with the acidity and citrus, work beautifully with the usual stuffing mix of crab, Ritz crackers, herbs and butter.

Another grape that I enjoy here is Chenin Blanc, with its own acidity and a slightly different flavor profile…instead of citrus, you get green apple, quince, and pear.

Now, when decadence is on the menu and Lobster Thermidor arrives at your table, it’s time to step up the vino.

This lobster version is not something you see on many menus, but when you’re on vacation and you’ve decided that the diet is on hold, order the Thermidor. Thermidor is prepared by removing the lobster meat from the shell after boiling it and cooking it in a thick sauce of egg yolks, white wine and cognac. Next, you stuff the mix back into the shells, cover it with cheese (usually Gruyère), then bake it until it’s crispy brown.

Have I got your attention? This dish is not for the faint of heart, but damn, is it good. Now what wine can take this on?

The first choice is to go back to barrel-aged chardonnays, either from California or again, Burgundy…but here we want some time in wood. Any Premier Cru (less oak) or Grand Cru (a bit heavier) Chablis would work here, with enough acidity and plenty of weight to take this dish on.

As always, Champagne is a good “go-to,” and getting a bit more exotic (why not?), some of the Rhône white wines from France can make a perfect partner to the thermidor…Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc and Viognier are three that fit the bill.

So next time you’re cracking shells, attacking a baked stuffed, or savoring Thermidor, search for the right wine…your palate will thank you.

Click below for some top choices…

Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.