Misunderstood Merlot
by Mike Stolese
Poor merlot has had an interesting history.
It went from being one of the most popular red wines on the market, along with one of the noble grapes in Bordeaux, to being an overproduced, flabby wine without much character.
But what caused this change, believe it or not, was its own popularity.
Back in the 80s and 90s, a number of reports came out about the health benefits of red wine. In particular, this was featured in a 60 Minutes segment, and sales of merlot boomed.
Merlot was, overall, a very approachable, fruit-forward, soft red that appealed to the masses. That all sounds good so far. But sadly, wineries, in trying to keep up with demand, started cutting corners…adding sugar to allow early harvesting, releasing vintages too early, etc. The demand may have been met, but it was without the quality.
The last straw was the 2004 release of the movie Sideways (one of the first movies my soon-to-be wife and I saw together). Anyone who remembers the movie will remember the iconic line "No…if anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any f*ing merlot!"
And boom…merlot takes another kick in the red-stained teeth, and pinot noir becomes the hot new grape on the block.
Well, the years went by, winemakers took the hit and learned a valuable lesson…people know what they like, and they will tell you. They regrouped, and they went back to making and releasing quality merlot. What is actually funny is that some of the greatest wines in the world are based on merlot…Château Pétrus, a 100% merlot from Bordeaux, being one.
And for those paying attention to the end of Sideways, our star winds up drinking Château Cheval Blanc — another of the great Bordeaux based on merlot — out of a coffee cup in a burger joint. Many may have missed the irony here.
Today, there are great merlots coming out of California, Washington, France, New Zealand and Australia. When offered the same love from winemakers that the top cabernets get, merlot can offer structure and aging potential (although not as long as the big cabs, which have more tannins and a bit more acidity). On the palate, top merlot wines offer a plush, velvety mouthfeel, with rich black fruit flavors and hints of spice.
Merlot is not a grape to be ignored if you’re a red wine fan. If the power of big cabs is a bit over the top for some, find yourself a nice merlot, hit a fast food joint and enjoy. 😊
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Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
