
Napa, Sonoma…Paso?
by Mike Stolese
Although California has been producing wine since the late 1800s, it wasn’t until 1976 that Napa Valley — and, soon after, Sonoma — became famous, following the historic Judgment of Paris. In this blind tasting, a panel of French experts surprisingly ranked Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay above France’s most prestigious and expensive wines, instantly putting Napa on the world map.

Napa and Sonoma have held on to that title for decades, but now there is a new player in California: Paso Robles. Well, not really “new”…Paso was recognized as its own AVA (American Viticultural Area) in 1983, but many folks are still just not familiar with Paso wines. And those who are not are missing out on something special happening in the hills and valleys of Paso Robles.
It was in the late 1990s when a Bordeaux-style blend from Justin winery in Paso, Isosceles, was rated by Wine Spectator as a Top 10 wine in the world. After that, the hits just kept coming!
Paso brings a few very interesting characteristics to grape growing, one being the massive temperature swings that help balance the sugar and acidity in the grapes. Then, you have one of the more unique soil profiles, with Paso having the highest concentration of limestone-rich soils in California. Limestone is considered one of the top soil types for grape growing because it regulates water supply, preserves grape acidity and provides beneficial stress to the vines. Limestone is the dominant soil in some of the world’s most famous wine regions, including Champagne, Burgundy, and Chablis.
Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely the king of grapes in Paso, along with Syrah, Zinfandel and Grenache on the red end of things. For whites, Chardonnay is the queen to the Cab Sauv, with Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier also in play.
That’s the short story on Paso Robles. Talk to your wine person and ask them about Paso wines…they really do impress. Napa, Sonoma…you have some competition!
Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
