Both are cool-climate regions that allow for long hang time for the grapes, so the grapes have time to develop more complex flavors with less sugar. That, along with the fact that almost all of the Pinot Noir grapes grown in Oregon come from French clones and were planted much later than those in California (the early 1960s, to be exact), adds to the similarities in style. These wines are earthy, with flavors of tart cranberry and mushroom and a nice core of minerality. They have a leaner body, firmer tannins, and a crisp, mouth-watering acidity.

We also have a slightly different set of rules for food pairing here. High acidity and savory edges make these wines incredible partners for fatty fish like wild salmon, as well as roasted duck and mushroom-forward dishes. I would also throw in lamb and pork.

Now we move on to California, with its warm climate and unique terroir. Pinot Noir has thrived in California, but with a noticeable difference in weight and flavor profile. Now, California also planted Pinot Noir from French clones, but these plantings were started in the 1850s and are considered "heritage" clones. Even though these vines were brought to the United States over 150 years ago, they have mutated naturally over time to adapt to local California soils and climates.

The biggest differences between French and California Pinot Noirs start with warmer climates and soil. Warmer climates require the grapes to be harvested much sooner than cool-climate grapes…leave them hanging too long and you get too much sugar, leading to Pinot Noir that’s too sweet.

California Pinots also show a more fruit-forward style, with a richness and weight that you don’t get in the cool-climate Pinots. What you DO get are intense flavors of ripe black cherry, raspberry, and baking spices. They feature a rounder mouthfeel, lower acidity, and a lush finish. From a food pairing standpoint, think roast chicken with herbs, apple-and-fennel roasted pork tenderloin, barbecue pork ribs or filet mignon with wild mushroom sauce.

Now all this said, there are certainly other regions producing killer Pinots. New Zealand comes to mind, with Pinots that fall between the new world and old world styles. And my old stomping grounds, Piemonte, Italy, although not planted in large quantities, offers some very nice wines. Lastly, and this may surprise you…the Finger Lakes region of New York. These wines fall more in the vein of the Burgundian and Oregon wines, as they are also cool-climate wines

So, if you’re a Pinot fan, search them out from other producers and other regions. You will be surprised by what you may find out there…every time I say, “It’s Burgundy or nothing,” I find a California Pinot that blows me away! Raen, from Sonoma, California, happens to be one that hit me.

Hey…it can happen.

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Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.