ONION CITY CHICKEN & OYSTER: BEYOND THE NAME
What if you don't want chicken or oysters?
That was the question we set out to answer on a recent visit to Onion City Chicken & Oyster, a spot that had already become a favorite of ours and is nicely close to home.
We walked in fully committed to avoiding the very two things the restaurant is named after.
That lasted about four minutes.
The oysters rotate daily, from wherever in New England or Canada that they’re freshest, and the accoutrements are what pushed us over the edge. Your order comes with a choice of two, and beyond the usual suspects (mignonette, horseradish, lemon, cocktail sauce), they're also offering a chive crème fraîche that feels genuinely luxurious, a brunoise kimchi, pickled mustard seeds, and oyster crackers. If you're so inclined, the menu suggests an ice cold Aquavit or Crown Royal alongside. Your call.
Just below the oysters on the menu, if you're feeling particularly decadent, are tins of Osetra and Beluga caviar served with potato chips and crème fraîche. We are saving that for another visit.
Now, back to the original question. The Hors d'Oeuvres section of the menu alone is worth the trip. The cheddar beignets with honey butter are exactly as good as they sound. The hot miso-scallion crab dip is addictive in the way that makes you keep going back for more, even after you're well past full.
The tater tots — which are huge and wedge-shaped, served with smoked char, trout roe, and more of that chive crème fraîche — are one of the best bites on the menu. Of course, it’s hard to go wrong with tater tots, but these are next level. The steak tartare comes with smoked cheddar and potato chips, and the fried oyster ssam pairs a fried oyster with spicy mayo, barbecue pork, and kimchi.
On this visit, we also went with the honey butter wings, which are the way to go if you want to get a taste of the chicken program without committing to a full dinner. But if you're ready to commit, do so with gusto: it’s Misty Knoll Farm, bone-in, crackling crust, juicy inside…the kind of fried chicken that makes you understand why people build restaurants around the concept. You can go for a two-piece basket, a half bird, or a whole bird, all with multiple sides. Plan accordingly.
And speaking of the sides…do not skip them, whether or not you order chicken. The German-style potato salad with pickled mustard seeds is some of the best I've had. The spicy pickles are non-negotiable. The baked beans are made with local Rookie's Root Beer, and the flaky buttermilk biscuits are the kind of thing you'll be thinking about on the drive home.
The sandwich side of the menu leans seafood (lobster roll, fish and crisps), but the "all dressed" New England beef and pork hot dog on a griddled roll is an absolute standout…and I say this as someone who is generally NOT a hot dog fan. Other signatures worth knowing about: the Rough Francis fried chicken sandwich (hot sauce, blue cheese, lettuce and pickles on a brioche bun, and the PEI mussels steamed in white wine, shallot, garlic and butter, served with a Red Hen baguette…great for sharing.
The cocktail list is classic-leaning with just enough personality… a Whiskey Sour, a Pink Lady, a CC & Ginger made with fresh ginger. The wine list is thoughtful and runs heavily natural. Drafts are all from Vermont (Hill Farmstead, Zero Gravity, Goodwater, Kramer & Kin among them)…and if you want to keep things simple, there's even a Genny Cream Ale in a can.
They also offer a weekend brunch, running Saturday and Sunday from 10 to 3…we haven't been yet, but the menu looks like it's worth its own visit.
Because one visit will not be enough.
