RIOJA: A LITTLE RESPECT, PLEASE!
by Mike Stolese
When wine folk talk about Spain, it’s Rioja that first comes to mind.
There are many great wine regions in Spain, but Rioja is special and actually dates back over 2,000 years.
When I say that Rioja needs a bit more respect, it’s because I don’t believe many folks are as familiar as they might be with the Tempranillo grape, which is the heart and soul of Rioja.
Tempranillo is a thick-skinned grape with incredible aging potential. I have had Riojas over 20 years old that still had tannins and structure.
You don’t hear them included in conversations about aging red wines, like Barolos and Bordeaux, but they do have that kind of game. I will say that some of the aging is due to the strict laws regarding aging in oak, which certainly extends the aging potential. Thankfully, Tempranillo takes well to the time in barrel.
A quick note on some of the aging categories in Spain:
Crianza: Aged two years, with one in oak
Reserva: Three years in total aging
Gran Reserva: Aged five years before release (Gran Reservas will get you to the 20 to 25 year aging mark)
Tempranillo on the palate will offer berries, plum, tobacco and herb notes. Often times, it will be blended with Grenache or Carignan to help add some acidity.
But what about white wines from Rioja?
Funny you should ask. The white grape, Viura, is the most prominent white varietal. For you Sauvignon Blanc drinkers, give Viura a try. It has refreshing acidity and shows lime, melon and green apple flavors. It’s one of my favorite summer whites.
So, to finish…young Riojas can be fruity, acidic and perfect with a variety of foods. Having a taco bar night? A bottle or two of young Rioja will certainly enhance the evening. If you get into the older Riojas, they will definitely stand up to a nice steak or pork tenderloin.
As for Viura on the white wine side…seafood, seafood, seafood! Or, just sipping on the deck or boat.
Click below for some of our favorite Rioja selections…
Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
