THE LONG POUR: THE “MYSTERY GRAPES” OF ITALY

by Mike Stolese

Everyone has their “go-to” wines or grapes, but the beauty of the wine world is the almost unlimited variety of wines available.

Italy alone offers hundreds of varietals…and they’re still discovering new grapes. Some you may have a passing knowledge of, and plenty you’ve probably never heard of. I’ve been in this business for over 30 years, and one of the many things that keeps me so intrigued is that, even after all these years, I’m still coming across new grapes.

Today, I’m going to focus on Italy and a few of my favorite “mystery grapes.”

Favorita, from the Piedmont region, has become my summer sipper. Genetically similar to Vermentino from Sardinia, it’s light and refreshing, known for its high acidity, citrus notes, and a distinct salty/mineral finish. It often features intense pear and white floral aromas.

Grillo is another exciting white grape, this one from Sicily. Grillo is richer and fuller on the palate, while Favorita has the higher, more refreshing acidity. With hints of herbs, spice, grapefruit, passion fruit, and breezy salinity on the nose, this full-bodied wine exudes rich, structured flavors of stone fruit, bright citrus, and minerality. Sip Grillo as an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.

Off to reds, and my first thought is Primitivo from Puglia. For all you red Zinfandel fans, this would be your vino!!! There’s actually debate about whether Primitivo is descended from the Zinfandel grape. Either way, Primitivo is a mouthful of wine…dark, inky, with deep, dark berry fruit. It really shines when paired with BBQ.

Last but not least is Nerello Mascalese, again from Sicily. Pinot Noir fans, this might be the wine for you…but be ready for a very cool core of minerality from the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna running through the wine. Light to medium-bodied, it’s known for its pale color, high acidity, fine tannins, and complex aromas of red fruit and herbs. Often compared to Burgundy or Barolo due to its elegance and aging potential, these wines offer a unique, savory character with notes of cherry, smoke, and herbs, pairing beautifully with grilled meats and rich vegetable dishes.

If any of these grapes caught your attention, I’ve listed a few recommendations you might like to explore further. Click below for a short list of bottles I’d be happy to drink myself…

Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.