
THE LONG POUR: THE “WINTER WINES” OF WASHINGTON
by Mike Stolese
When folks think of Pacific Northwest wines, many go right to Oregon and their incredible Pinot Noirs. But right next door is the state of Washington and their big, bold reds.
Now, I’m as big a fan of Oregon Pinots as anyone, but when it’s 10 degrees, snow is coming down, wind is howling…I need something with some weight and power to drink by the fire, and the reds out of the Columbia, Yakima and Walla Walla Valleys in Washington are where I head. They bring it!!!
The grape Syrah leads the charge here, either on its own or in many of the powerful red blends coming out of Washington. For those fans of the Rhône wines from France — St. Joseph, Gigondas, Côte Rôtie, etc. — these big, bad Syrahs need your attention. I recently tried K Vintners 2020 Wahluke Slope Syrah with a Rhône-loving friend of mine, and neither of us could believe the intensity and similarity to the powerful Rhône reds.
Syrah’s history begins in the Rhône Valley of France, but it is now grown throughout the world. Fun fact is that some trimmings were actually taken to Australia in the early 1800s, and through some misspelling of the grape, morphed into Shiraz. Syrah also arrived in California in the late 19th century but was largely wiped out by phylloxera in the 1890s. It saw a major resurgence in the 1970s and 80s, led by a group of winemakers known as the “Rhône Rangers.” California and Australia offer a slightly lighter, more fruity version of Syrah.
But it is Washington that comes closest to the original, tannic, powerful Rhône wines of France. So the next bitter cold, white night in Vermont, search out a Washington Syrah or Syrah blend. It will warm you from the inside out. 😉
I’ve included some of my favorites in the guide to follow…
Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.