Welcome to the first week of January…which somehow feels like it should be the last week of March.
The year has barely started, and we’ve already endured single-digit temperatures, a solid coating of ice covering every surface, repeat visits from the plow, and dogs who are more than ready for some actual exercise. Getting outside lately feels less like “fresh Vermont air” and more like “taking your life in your hands.”
So, yes…we are fully in the trenches together. Which means that good food, good company, and having things to look forward to feel especially important right now.
Already over winter.
ON THE MENU…
Starters
Bites & Bottles
What’s On
STARTERS…
Like many other (brave? foolish?) souls, I’ve embarked on “Dry January”…much to my (wine-selling) husband’s dismay. I’ve done it for the past few years, mostly because the new year also coincides with my inevitable quest to drop a few pounds heading into spring. I find it easier to eat more mindfully without the glass of wine or two, and doing without the extra calories doesn’t hurt, either. This will almost certainly never be a permanent change…just a short reset.
So read on for a few thoughts on how to get through this month…whether it’s surviving the cold, the lack of alcohol, or some combination of the two.
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A quick reminder that Burlington Wine & Food tickets are officially on sale. January feels like a fine time to put something fun and summery on the calendar (what was that about having something to look forward to)?
And, don’t forget that we’re also giving away a pair of BWF tickets at the end of the January to one subscriber who helps grow this community. Scroll to the bottom of the email to find your unique subscriber link and share it with someone who loves food and drink and might enjoy what we’re doing here. Anyone who signs up a new subscriber will be put into the drawing, happening on January 31.
BITES + BOTTLES
First up…a few big moves are happening for Jed Davis, who continues to shape the local restaurant landscape with his two restaurant groups and multiple eateries (The Farmhouse Tap & Grill, Guild Tavern, El Cortijo Taqueria and Bliss Bee, among others).
The first is his recently completed move of their flagship Italian eatery, Pascolo Ristorante, back to its original home at 83 Church Street. The restaurant, which had moved to the old Sweetwaters location just up the road, is now again operating from its intimate, below-ground dining room…a cozy, trattoria-style space that longtime Pascolo fans enjoyed for many years. Their menu will continue to feature the comforting house-made pastas, classic antipasti, wood-fired pizzas and hearty entrees that regulars order again and again.
Next on deck for Davis and his team is Spaghet Red Sauce Joint, a new Italian-inspired restaurant opening next weekend at Finney Crossing in Williston. Guests can expect approachable Italian cuisine…comfort-driven, unfussy and designed to be a regular rotation rather than a special-occasion stop.
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And speaking of new spots…the former Simple Roots Brewing space in the Ethan Allen Shopping Center won’t stay quiet for long. Upper Pass Beer, which got its start brewing small batches in Tunbridge in 2015, is preparing to take over the Burlington taproom and brewing space.
Known for hop-forward IPAs as well as lagers, dark ales, and sours, Upper Pass has built a loyal following across Vermont and the Northeast. The new location will give the brewery a neighborhood taproom with space for for small-batch brewing, pop-ups, and events, adding fresh energy to a familiar North Avenue spot.
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We decided to go out in a blaze of glory before committing to a healthier reset (in my world, the first Monday after the New Year!) and headed to La Reprise with friends on Sunday. They had just hosted a decadent truffle dinner series, and we were happy to find that a few of those truffles were still making their presence known on the menu.
The indulgent hits were all there: the crazy-good bread with Animal Farm butter, the beef tartare, an insane mushroom risotto finished with truffles, and a rich pork-and-beef Bolognese. But here’s what’s funny…what I’m actually highlighting are the salad and the desserts.
La Reprise’s Napa cabbage salad is their take on a Caesar, and it’s outstanding. Anchovy vinaigrette and parmesan are par for the course, but the prosciutto crumb takes it to a new level, adding just the right salty crunch and depth. I’m kicking myself for forgetting to take photos!
And then dessert…or rather, desserts, shared across the table. The rosemary lemon sorbet was incredibly refreshing…bright and clean, with a strong rosemary note that even non-devotees (like me) will appreciate. There was also a white chocolate ice cream topped with Tradition Prestige caviar…we didn’t know what to expect from this, but it turned out to be genuinely excellent. And finally, a chocolate spice cake with boiled cider, candied pepitas, and maple cream. Unreal.
One week we’re writing about pizza…the next it’s truffles and caviar. And somehow, Monday’s yogurt smoothie tasted fine, too.
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Vermont isn’t exactly the first place people think of when it comes to Italian culture…but the Vermont Italian American Cultural Association has quietly been preserving, promoting, and celebrating Italian heritage across the Green Mountain State through a wide-ranging schedule of programs and events.
From wine tastings and language groups to film screenings, cooking programs, bocce socials, and more, VICA offers a remarkably full calendar. Whether you’re deeply connected to Italian roots or simply drawn to the culture, food, history and community, VICA’s 400 members have built an enduring presence here in Vermont for over 40 years.
Photo: Steve Eaton
The centerpiece of VICA’s year is Carnevale, their flagship fundraiser in support of their grant program, happening March 7 at the Farmhouse at the Essex Resort & Spa. The evening will include appetizers with a pasta station, a cash bar with hand-curated Italian wines, a DJ and dancing, a professional opera performance, a silent auction, and a raffle for a week-long stay at an apartment in Tuscany. Costumes and masks are optional but encouraged (masks are also provided!).
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When you look past the restaurant openings and new menus, some of the most interesting food work in Vermont is happening quietly, behind the scenes in unexpected corners of higher education.
One example is the Vermont State University system’s Center for Agriculture & Food Entrepreneurship (CAFE). On February 21 and 22, they’re offering a two-day, hands-on sausage-making master class hosted at The 1787 Butchery, the university’s new meat science lab at its Randolph campus.
The workshop covers the full process, from trimming and weighing to linking and smoking. Participants leave with recipes, guidance, and the sausages they’ve made themselves. The $400 class accepts VSAC Advancement Grants and AmeriCorps Segal Awards.
The lab, which opened last spring, also offers other courses, including butchering classes and a craft distilling class taught by Dave Mosher of Black Flannel Distilling.
Photo via CAFE on Instagram
That same mix of education and application is showing up in Vermont’s maple sector. The University of Vermont Extension has opened a maple syrup quality testing lab, giving producers an in-state resource to ensure syrup meets Grade A standards. The lab allows sugarmakers to test quality markers, reinforcing Vermont’s reputation as the gold standard for maple syrup.
These types of programs speak to the infrastructure behind Vermont’s food scene…it’s encouraging to see this kind of work quietly strengthening Vermont’s food culture for the long haul.
TASTEMAKERS: KAYLA SILVER
Each week, we feature three quick questions with someone bringing something creative, thoughtful, or fascinating to the food and wine scene here in Vermont and beyond.
This week, we caught up with Kayla Silver, owner of Salt and Bubbles and Leo and Co, both in the Essex Experience. Kayla blends her passion for elevated flavors with with an instinct for what excites her customers, always driven by a sharp eye for quality and a knack for making people feel welcome.
Photo by Daria Bishop
Read the full interview below, including what Kayla has learned about running multiple businesses and how she chooses the most exciting wines for her lineup…
THE LONG POUR: WET OR DRY JANUARY? WE’VE GOT YOU!
by Mike Stolese
January is upon us, and as we all know, some folks take it as a reset after the holidays.
On the plus side for those taking a break (and we are ready to have you back on February 1!), the N/A options that are available today are broad and incredibly tasty. From beer and wine to N/A cocktails, I’ve been very impressed with the selections and quality.
WHAT’S ON…
One of the fun things about Vermont’s food scene is how often good ideas show up as pop-ups. Cafe Mamajuana will host a pop-up from Que Rico Taqueria on January 8 (as well as January 15 and 29), starting at 5 p.m. Que Rico is a sister concept from Stephen Coggio of Cloud 9 Caterers and Mimi’s Italian Eats.
Coggio recently collaborated with Mayday on their Seven Fishes dinner, and this pop-up offers a chance to see another side of his cooking. Expect a small, thoughtfully curated menu of tacos and snacks, designed to be casual, approachable, and enjoyed by the community. Quantities will be limited, so arriving early is a good idea.
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Haymaker Bun Company, from the team behind Middlebury’s much-missed Arcadian, is bringing that same creative, Italian-inspired spirit to a series of Pasta Pop-Up Dinners. Expect handmade pastas, seasonal ingredients, and bold, comforting flavors. These intimate events sell quickly—their upcoming dinner was already sold out by the time this email landed—so follow along on their social media to catch details on the next one before it disappears.
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Cold nights don’t have to mean staying in. Trivia night offers a low-pressure way to meet friends, sip something warm (or cold), have some snacks and enjoy a little friendly competition. Lucky for us, there are lots of them to go around. We’ve attempted to compile a list of local trivia events by night of the week…but because the scene is always evolving, consider this a working list and is not exhaustive. Be sure to confirm details by phone or online before heading out!
Mondays:
Black Flannel, Essex
The Monkey House, Winooski
Tuesdays:
The Burger Bar, Colchester
Higher Ground Showcase Lounge, South Burlington (*MONTHLY)
On Tap, Essex Junction
Rozzi’s Tavern, Colchester
And, Switchback is hosting a Schitt’s Creek trivia night on January 13!
Wednesdays:
Citizen Cider Press House Pub, Burlington
Dumb Luck Pub, Winooski
Fig Bar and Cocktails, Shelburne
Ri Ra Irish Pub, Burlington
Venetian Soda Lounge, Burlington
Thursdays:
Four Quarters Brewing, Winooski
Vermont Cider Lab, Essex
Sundays
The Lazy Goat Tavern at The Essex Resort & Spa
And The Lazy Goat isn’t stopping at trivia…they’ve got a whole lineup of winter theme nights ready to entertain you, including a mac & cheese bar on Mondays, poutine on Tuesdays, smash burgers on Wednesdays, and another fun game — Music Bingo — to fan your competitive flame on Thursdays.
Get out and have some fun.
To wrap things up on a feel-good note, we wanted to give a shout out and a Good Neighbor Award to a local business doing genuinely good work.
In addition to serving up some of the city’s most joyful desserts, Only Cannoli has been quietly showing up for the community…they’ve partnered with King Street Laundry to provide free lunches during their weekly free laundry program. It’s a simple, thoughtful act that brings comfort, dignity, and a little sweetness where it’s needed most…and that’s exactly the kind of neighbor we love to celebrate.
Photo by Steve Mease
Until next week…bundle up, be a good neighbor, and we’ll see you out there.