Yes, There IS Another Cab…
by Mike Stolese
Whether you are a wine drinker or not, it’s a pretty safe bet everyone has heard of Cabernet Sauvignon.
What still surprises folks is that its compatriot, Cabernet Franc, is a whole different grape that shares the same first name.
Cab Sauvignon is a big, powerful, red wine that can be very tannic with incredible aging potential. It is the perfect lead varietal in the traditional Bordeaux blend and gives Bordeaux its incredible aging potential.
Cab Franc, on the other hand, brings a level of structure with its high acid levels, along with an elegant mix of floral aromatics, red berry flavors and a unique herbal character. It has become one of my go-to wines when I’m looking for something a bit different.
As always and with any wine category, there can be good and bad. Cab Franc, when too herbal, will show over-the-top green pepper, and that’s just not that pleasant. When they are on, however, they are one of the more fun red wines on the market. Although Cab Franc does not have the aging potential that Cab Sauv has, well-made Cab Franc can age for 15 or even 20 years due to its high acid levels and medium tannins.
Cab Franc is indigenous to France but has found other homes, particularly in California and Washington. Some sleepers can be found in New York, with the Finger Lakes region producing some very impressive Cab Francs.
The beauty of Cab Franc is its ability to grow in both cool and warm climates. Cool-climate Cab Franc, as found in the Loire Valley in France, Italy and New York, really shows the high acidity it is known for and gives it the aging potential we talked about, along with the herbal edge and red berry fruit on the palate. Warm-climate Cab Francs won’t have the same sharp acid levels and are little more like Cab Sauv, being a bit fuller on the palate while still showing a bit of herbal character.
When it comes to food pairing, I would still stick with Cab Sauv for that big old slab of steak, but Cab Franc comes into its own with dishes like herb-crusted lamb, pork, poultry and any number of salamis and sausages, where its acidity works magic with the fattiness of the meats. I also find a nice glass at the end of a meal to be perfect, as again, its acidity helps cleanse the palate.
So depending on what you’re eating, or if you’re just looking for a refreshing change to your Cab Sauv ways, find a Cab Franc and enjoy a new experience.
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Mike Stolese is the owner of Vermont Wine Merchants, a wholesale distribution company based in Burlington.
