Hello, and happy Thursday!
It’s that time of the month where January has fully shown its hand.
The gym is getting a little quieter. Social calendars seem emptier. Dry January is either going beautifully…or hanging by a very thin thread. And the question of the week is no longer “What are we doing this weekend?” but “Do we have to leave the house?”
We think yes. At least once. Preferably somewhere that good food and a decent bottle of something are waiting…
ON THE MENU…
Starters
Bites & Bottles
Tastemakers: Jed Davis
The Long Pour: The “Winter Wines” of Washington
What’s On
STARTERS…
Have you noticed that people choose what to drink very differently when they’re out than when they’re at home?
At home, most of us default to habit. We grab the same bottles we know, by the same few producers. We make safe choices that require very little thought.
But in restaurants, the menu invites experimentation. We order things we may not buy at the store. We try grapes we can’t pronounce. We take recommendations. And this is a particularly good time of year to do so: in quieter dining rooms and behind the bar, the folks working often have a level of knowledge that may surprise you…and they’re usually more than happy to share it if you ask.
The risk feels lower when someone is pouring the glass and explaining what’s in it, and when the commitment is a glass instead of a bottle. Chances are, you’ll find something that becomes a new favorite.
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This also happens to be the experience we strive to create every year at Burlington Wine & Food. If you haven’t joined us, here’s a peek at what you’ll enjoy…it’s a day of tasting, learning, and conversation with people who are passionate about their products and enjoy helping you find what you like:
Tickets are on sale now, with a $10 discount off the first session. And don’t forget to share this newsletter using the unique link at the bottom of the page…for every subscriber, you’ll be entered into a drawing for a free pair of tickets!
BITES + BOTTLES
I almost hesitated to write about Gold. Not because we don’t love it…but because we selfishly worry that if everyone finds out how good it is, we’ll never get a seat again.
Obviously, that’s a joke (mostly!). We want them wildly successful. And to still be able to get a seat now and then…
Tuesdays are Pasta Nights, and it’s hands-down one of the best deals in town. Three house-made pastas to choose from for $12, plus an optional $8 wine pairing. But first…we skated in and found we’d caught the tail end of the $1 oyster special. They’re served with a bright, punchy red onion mignonette that’s much more interesting than the usual.
We also shared the squash salad…greens, dried cranberries, red onion, lemon chèvre, apples and citrus dressing. Interestingly, it’s almost identical to a favorite salad I make at home…except for the roasted delicata squash, which I would never have thought to add (and will now definitely do so).
In spite of Pasta Night, I promptly ignored the special and ordered the Moules Frites instead. A very generous bowl of mussels in a white wine, butter, garlic, shallot and herb broth, with tomato, peppers and fennel giving it a distinctive twist. Add a mountain of hand-cut fries and a dangerously good garlic aioli…I tried (and failed) to pace myself.
Mushroom Pappardelle
Mike did the sensible thing and ordered the mushroom pappardelle…Crimini mushrooms, caramelized onion, spinach, garlic and crispy onion. The handmade pasta is the real star…tender, silky, and exactly what fresh pasta is supposed to be. The other Pasta Night options — broccoli and sausage fettucine and eggplant rollatini with spinach gnocchetti — sounded equally divine.
Moules Frites
“Ginger Love” and “Gold Rush”
Drinks were just as thoughtful. I went with the NA “Ginger Love”…apple shrub, lemon, ginger beer and rosemary. I’m usually wary of ginger beer, but the staff pointed out that it’s Fever Tree, so I knew it would be more “fresh ginger” and less “sugar bomb." Mike had the “Gold Rush”…bourbon, lemon and honey syrup. His full review: “really good.”
Gold keeps doing what it does best. Just remember that we’re telling you this in confidence, and trust you’ll use discretion about filling up the tables.
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The 2026 James Beard Award semifinalists were announced yesterday, and once again, Vermont found itself well represented on a national stage.
Last week, we wrote about Café Monette…which just opened in August in St. Albans and now it finds itself named a Best New Restaurant semifinalist. For a young restaurant in a small Vermont city, that kind of recognition is rare, and exciting to see.
A few weeks earlier, we also wrote about a meal at Fancy’s in Burlington, and this week its chef, Paul Trombly, was named a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast.
Another of the Vermont stories we were especially happy to see on this list belongs to Leslie McCrorey Wells, a national semifinalist for Outstanding Restauranteur.
Long before this week’s nominations, Leslie had already shaped a significant part of Burlington’s dining scene…first by building Pizzeria Verità, and later by taking over neighboring Trattoria Delia and Sotto Enoteca from founders Tom and Lori Delia.
And we can’t help but love on this a personal level…Mike and I actually got engaged at Trattoria Delia more than 20 years ago.
Leslie McCrorey Wells (via LinkedIn)
Elsewhere in Vermont, the list is just as strong:
Kate Wise of Juniper Bar & Restaurant in Burlington was recognized as Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service
Tiara Adorno of The Crooked Ram in Manchester is a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast
And Max Vogel of Ondis in Montpelier is also a Best Chef: Northeast semifinalist
Finalists will be announced in March, with winners revealed in June. For now, it’s a great reminder that Vermont’s dining scene continues to punch far above its weight.
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We’re often asked what we drink at home, and the answer is: honestly, not all that much. But every now and then, a night feels like we earned it. And Mike, much like he does in the kitchen, likes to get creative with whatever we have on hand.
In an unofficial sign that it’s freezing outside, the “penguin” cocktail shaker appeared, and Mike built some sort of a winter Old Fashioned with WhistlePig rye, St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, charred oak and maple cocktail syrup, a dash of lavender bitters (odd, but it worked), a splash of seltzer and a candied orange garnish. Then he made the same drink for me with Free Spirits bourbon, and suddenly the whole thing shifted: lighter, softer, and proof that the build matters just as much as the spirit.
All in all, not a terrible showing for whatever was kicking around the house.
A hastily assembled cocktail shoot!
TASTEMAKERS: JED DAVIS
Each week, we feature three quick questions with someone bringing something creative, thoughtful, or fascinating to the food and wine scene here in Vermont and beyond.
This week, we caught up with Jed Davis, who operates Farmhouse Tap & Grill, Guild Tavern, Pascolo Ristorante, El Cortijo Taqueria and Bliss Bee…one of the most extensive and diverse restaurant portfolios in the area. His latest endeavor, Spaghet Red Sauce Joint, is a super casual, Italian-American restaurant that opened last weekend in Willison.
Jed Davis
Read the full interview, including how Jed chooses new concepts, what keeps Farmhouse timeless, and why restaurant ownership is not for the faint of heart…
THE LONG POUR: THE “WINTER WINES” OF WASHINGTON
by Mike Stolese
When folks think of Pacific Northwest wines, many go right to Oregon and their incredible Pinot Noirs. But right next door is the state of Washington and their big, bold reds.
Now, I’m as big a fan of Oregon Pinots as anyone, but when it’s 10 degrees, snow is coming down, wind is howling…I need something with some weight and power to drink by the fire, and the reds out of the Columbia, Yakima and Walla Walla Valleys in Washington are where I head. They bring it!!!
WHAT’S ON…
If you’re looking for reasons to brave the cold, we’ve got a few on our radar this week…
The Burlington Winter Farmers Market is back on indoors this weekend, which means hot coffee, fresh bread, winter greens, and a very solid excuse to leave your couch. If your pantry needs a mid-January reset, this is the easiest place to start.
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Winter cooking doesn’t have to mean soup and boredom. At this family-friendly workshop, “Herbs and Spice and Everything Nice,” on Saturday the 24th, Shelburne Farms will have you grinding your own spice blends, making tea sachets, and mixing aromatic teas. It’s hands-on, cozy, and a few shades more fun than your spice rack at home. Tickets are $8 and registration is required.
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If you like your dinner plans to do some good, this one’s worth putting on the calendar. On Tuesday the 28th, La Reprise hosts a fundraiser dinner for Stepping Stones Children’s Center. With a curated three course set menu and $25 from every ticket supporting local kids, it’s a nice upgrade from a Tuesday night at home.
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Spotlight 802 is a monthly series presented by the city of South Burlington that brings engaging voices from across Vermont to share their insights and expertise. The January edition on the 29th highlights the local craft brew scene, with a panel of experts including Emma Arian (Vermont Brewers Association), Jack Droppa (Weird Window Brewing), Chris Kesler (Black Flannel), and Anna Novine (Zero Gravity), all unpacking how local beer gets made, marketed, and loved.
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And speaking of Zero Gravity…the former micro brewery space where Zero Gravity first got its start, in the American Flatbread Burlington Hearth space, has officially re-emerged as Mothership Brewery. With a new name, new look, and a sister brewery of Idletyme in Stowe, the beers will only be available at the Burlington restaurant but may occasionally emerge at special events.
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Rescue dogs and craft beer can only be a winning combination. Switchback’s monthly dog-friendly afternoon, “Pints & Pups,” returns on January 26. Pups and their people are invited for beers, McKenzie hot dogs, and a fundraiser-side benefit for local non-profits like Therapy Dogs of Vermont. It’s casual, community-centric, and a perfect Sunday if you like hops on tap and fur in your lap.
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“Marone!” Bar Renée’s weekly “Sopranos Night” is underway, and you’re only one episode behind. Every Monday night brings an episode from each season, Italian wine, and themed food…think “gabagool,” “scarole” and more. This week kicked things off with Season 1, but the series runs for the next five weeks.
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It’s already sold out once, so now’s your chance to jump on the Adventure Dinner’s Love Trek on February 21, with newly added spots for their winter trek and dinner experience. Snowshoe or cross-country the trails at Blueberry Hill Inn, stop for four fire-cooked courses, enjoy après ski cocktails by the bonfire. If you’ve been waiting for an immersive winter experience, this may be the one.
And finally…we’ll end with one of the primary pleasures of living in Vermont.
If you’re looking for one easy way to make winter eating better, good cheese is a solid place to start. Luckily, the Cheese Club at the Hunger Mountain Coop in Montpelier is here to help. They’ll curate a monthly box of three cheeses, chosen by their cheesemongers, along with pairing ideas and a few well-chosen extras. January’s box is built for fondue, and ordering is open through Saturday for late-January pickup.
Good luck this weekend. Stay warm. Eat snacks.